Horse Stable Ideas To Know When Bringing Your New Horse Home 2022: Preparations You Should Go Through

Before you bring your horse home you should be prepared to stable him. It is better to buy your saddle and bridle after you have the horse in order to get tack that will fit and something that suits the type of animal you have purchased.

Stabling depends on the part of the country in which you live. Naturally where there is extreme cold and snow the horse should have a fairly warm place, free of drafts, to feed. However, don’t pamper your animal. The horse is a hardy animal and nature provides a coat heavy enough to survive any temperature. The animal will fare all right as long as he has plenty of feed and water.

You can go all out and build a picture barn with Dutch doors and the like, or just a makeshift lean-to, depending on how much money you have to spend. A horse can get along just as well with a lean-to against a garage or any other building—something to protect the manger from the weather and the horse from wind. It will not be necessary to hang a door on the corral side of the stable because the animal will then have the privilege of going and coming as he chooses. Double doors on the outside on the entrance side are good, so the horse can look over the bottom door section and yet be protected from drafts if the weather is cold. You will find that a horse will stand in the driving rain with his tail toward the downpour, but wind will almost always drive him inside the stall. A drop door just above the manger will make feeding easier without having to go inside the stall.

The stall should be well drained. Many horse owners like shavings or straw bedding. However, it is not nec­essary, and only raises the cost of keeping the horse and certainly takes more care. A wood floor is acceptable but can be noisy. It is easy, however, to keep clean by sweeping and the use of dehydrated lime. This floor can be well drained if the spaces between the studding are filled with small gravel. The presence of the gravel filled to the level of the boards so they rest on rock makes a steadier floor because there will be no give between the studding. By using gravel you can get by with 1 x 12’s of redwood or any local wood instead of 2 x 12’s.

The best floor is clay. A four-inch layer of red rock or gray slag, sprinkled and then rolled, makes a firm footing, not slippery, easy to rake, and drains well. It can easily be repaired by adding more clay and rolling with a lawn roller.

If you have a half acre or more your horse should have a small corral adjoining the stall, at least 20 x 20 feet. If you have only room for a corral and can make it a large one, then your stable need only be 10 x 10 feet with a corner manger. It is a good idea to draw a plan for stable and corral that will give you an idea for a more compact area to care for your horse and equipment.

Look for used lumber—1 x 6 or 2 x 6 rails are good. At the same time, look for metal nosing. Used nosing can usually be had for the asking. Nailed to the inside edge of the boards and painted the same color as the fence, it will insure an unchewed fence indefinitely. Nosing can also be nailed to the edges of fence posts. Horses appear to have a taste for some woods and will chew a post in two in a few days. If you live in a part of the country that has trees that grow tall and straight and about four inches in diameter, these will make an excellent rail fence. Usually rails that have been dried thoroughly will last indefinitely and the horses will only be able to pull off the bark. An owner of a grove may allow you to thin the trees for the rails. They should be ten to twenty feet long. Some woods will work well above ground but will quickly rot if used as posts. Rail­road ties that have been discarded make substantial posts and usually have been treated against rot. Never agree to barbed wire. Many a good horse has been ruined by deep cuts, not to mention constant scarring.

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